Our hosts had begun to mention them with ever increasing frequency, but none of us really knew what they were. When we asked, the response was rarely more than a small shake of the head and the reassurance that, “when you see them, you’ll know”. The landscape changed so slowly that at first we didn’t realize we were approaching them. Over days, the vast expanse of empty grasses morphed into some strange hills we hadn’t seen before. They were perfect half spheres, sometimes with a flat top. Bit by bit, they got larger, rolling into one another as the flora turned from lush, tall grasses to scrub that stubbornly clung to exposed rock in an increasingly alien-looking landscape.